The Detroit–Lansing–Flint corridor sits on heavy clay soil — a legacy of glacial Lake Whittlesey. Clay holds nutrients well, but it compacts under foot traffic, drains poorly, and warms 3–4 weeks later than sandy soil in spring. Raised beds bypass these problems entirely.
Cedar is naturally rot-resistant and lasts 15–20 years. Avoid pressure-treated lumber near food crops — chemicals can leach into soil. Minimum 2×8 boards for 8 inches of depth; 2×10 or 2×12 (10–12 inches) is ideal for root vegetables.
Maximum 4 feet wide — so you can reach the center from either side without stepping in. 8–12 feet long is practical. Never step inside a raised bed — you defeat the purpose by compacting the soil.
Cardboard directly on the clay suppresses weeds and breaks down over 1–2 seasons. Do NOT till the clay underneath — leave it undisturbed. It will actually help retain moisture for your raised bed fill.
Mel Bartholomew's proven formula: ⅓ blended compost, ⅓ peat moss (or coir), ⅓ coarse perlite or vermiculite. This mix drains perfectly, warms quickly, and holds nutrients. Never use straight topsoil — it compacts within one season.
Each spring, add 1–2 inches of fresh compost on top. This replaces nutrients used by last year's crops and improves soil structure progressively. Within 3 years your raised bed will have some of the richest soil imaginable.